One of the best all round cameras is the 5 x 7 or 4 x 5 or 3-1/4 x 4-1/4 view with a rigid tripod. I mean by this that more results can be accomplished with this type of camera than any other, but I would not care to carry one to the top of Mt. Rainier or across the Grand Canyon. A good portable kodak of 3-1/4×4-1/4 size would be better for this. The Graflex is too heavy, also, and its use is too restricted. For wild animal photographs it is indispensible. It would be well for us all to adopt the 3-1/4×4-1/4 size, because it makes a fair sized print; because it will stand enlargement up to 8 x 10 or 11 x 14″, and last but not least, because the subject matter on a negative this size can usually be printed on a lantern slide by contact. It is economical, and the lens equipment small enough to insure a high percentage of good results.
I do not advise the use of film packs or glass plates. Use either roll film, or preferably, cut film. The advantage of cut film is the variety of emulsions now available, such as commercial ortho, par speed, super speed, commercial panchromatic and portrait panchromatic. I would suggest that we adopt this size 3-1/4×4-1/4. right now, for the use of field naturalists. The type of camera can be decided upon by the individual who uses it. From what I can gather, Yeager, Ruhle and Collins could get along very well with a graflex, while Brockman, McKee, Been and Harwell should have a more portable camera for climbing. A graflex is always handy to have around if you cam afford one. Been and Harwell, I know, could use one to advantage.
Now a word about composition. The best suggestion I can make is for you to study pictures and get in the habit of seeing pictures. You fellows are living in the most beautiful parts of our country. You have pictures almost anywhere you look. If you haven’t already adopted photography as a hobby it is because there must be a screw loose somewhere. A camera in any one of our national parks should soon pay for itself.
Perhaps, without knowing why, our attention is oftimes attracted and held by a picture. It may be the composition of color that pleases us, or the composition in line and mass. In photography we must see our picture in black and white. We therefore look for line and mass. These must hold us within the picture area and not lead off somewhere else. The lines should always lead the eye to the center of interest. This is not always easy or always possible in photography. The artist can place things where he will and thus has the bulge on us. Have your people or animals moving or facing into the picture and not off of it. Watch the way the animal stands, the position of the head and ears. Look for catch lights in the eyes. All these things are done every day. In photographing groups or individual persons, do not have them face the sun directly. Have them turn a little to one side so as to get one highlight on the opposite cheek. In photographing forests and mountain ranges, have the sun to one side so as to throw them into high relief.
Filters and color sensitive (panchromatic) films are usually necessary to photograph clouds, distant objects, and snow capped mountains against the sky. The ordinary film can render these only at very high elevations in clear weather. The filters most in use for this purpose are the K1, K2, K3, and G. Wratten Filters. When you get a box of panchromatic films the factor or multiplication numbers for the increase in exposure for these filters is printed on a card inside.
Get a good exposure meter or guide, to determine your exposures. The Eastman Kodak Company will be glad to furnish free of charge pamphlets describing in detail nearly every photographic activity. If you are interested, send for the whole set.
There are a million things I haven’t touched upon. have to figure them out for yourself. You’ll just have to figure them out for yourself.
Dark room work is fully explained in every box of plates, paper, and chemical sold. All you need is practice. To make it easier still, prepared developer and fixing powders are furnished. All you do is to add water. In printing it is well to remember that the paper must be fully developed out. That requires from 45 seconds to 1-1/2 minutes. If the image comes up too fast in the developer, and you have to take it out before time, it is because you’ve given the paper too much light. Throw it away and try another.
It is a wise practice to use only the developer formular recommended for the particular brand of paper or films you are using.
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